Storm-Damaged Trees on the Mornington Peninsula: Turning Chaos into Garden Gold When Wild Weather Meets Mature Trees Summer–autumn southerlies racing up from Bass Strait routinely clock 100 km/h. In February 2025 alone, VICSES recorded over 31,000 storm-related requests, many for fallen eucalypts across Frankston and Mount Eliza. Old gums crack, root-plates heave out of sodden clay, and powerlines bow under unexpected loads. Safety First — The Quick Post-Storm Check If life or property is at risk call 000, then VICSES 132 500 for assistance. Assume every loose cable is live and every hanging limb is poised to drop. Ausgrid’s vegetation safety guide stresses staying at least eight metres clear of any conductor. DIY or Arborist? A split trunk, root-plate lift, or branches within conductor clearance require a qualified arborist. For ground-level debris with clear access, DIY dragging plus Groundwise chipping is usually all you need. See Heritage Tree Care’s advice on post-storm structural checks (read more). Preparing Fallen Branches for the Chipper Drag or wheelbarrow all loose branches to a single pile within 15 m of driveway access. Trim pieces longer than 2 m so they feed smoothly; leave twigs attached — they help self-feed. Shake off soil and rocks; remove wire, rope or nails that can damage chipper knives. Stack with butt-ends facing the driveway and no criss-crossing limbs to avoid snags. Keep children, pets, and curious neighbours outside an eight-metre radius of the work zone. Why On-Site Mulching Makes Sense Local trials by Melbourne councils show a 92 % weed-suppression rate under a 75–100 mm chip blanket. Mulch reduces summer moisture loss by roughly one-third and drips slow-release carbon back into the Peninsula’s sandy loams. Every tonne mulched on-site also avoids about 70 kg of CO₂-equivalent methane produced if that green waste rots in landfill. Clean-Up Flow with Groundwise & Our Arborist Partners Rapid assessment. Text photos or book a free site visit so we can confirm safe access and volume. Safe removal. A certified arborist handles any risky cuts; once trunks are grounded, our chipper turns debris into mulch. Mulch or remove. We leave a neat pile for your beds or cart it away for council reuse — your choice, no drama. Useful Resources VICSES — Storm & flood safety Ausgrid — Tree trimming near powerlines

Seven Ways to Deal with Green Waste …and why mulching on‑site usually gives you the most bang for buck Clearing Green Waste i.e. vines, hedge trimmings and fallen branches is the easy bit, what you do with the pile afterwards is where choices kick in.  Below are eight straight‑up options our clients around the Mornington Peninsula and South‑East Melbourne weigh up, plus the plain‑spoken pros and cons of each. By the end you’ll see why rolling in a mulcher (and either keeping or carting away the chip) tends to come out on top. Option A – DIY Trailer Run to the Tip If you already own a decent‑sized trailer, you can load everything yourself and head to one of the Shire’s Resource Recovery Centres. The standard green waste charge is $46 per cubic metre, which is about 1 6×4 trailer load (flat), and sometimes the councils run free Green Waste days. Meaning your only outlay is time, fuel and maybe a pie at the servo for a job well done.  Option B – Skip Bin in the Driveway The classic renovation solution works fine for garden jobs too. The bin is dropped and you fill it.  Good bits Perfect for staged clean‑ups over several days. You can toss palm fronds, stumps and soil off‑cuts so long as the provider allows it. Watch‑outs Skips are priced by size then weighed; green waste is heavy when wet. Takes up precious driveway space (and may need a council permit if on the street). You still lug every branch the whole way to the bin. We recommend this option for green waste when the customer is digging out roots full of dirt, stumps etc. If the green waste is predominately branches and bushes, a mulcher + a single trailer run to the tip for the roots can be a good alternative.  Option C – Mulcher On‑Site – our favourite, no bias whatsoever 😉😉 You feed all green waste (some exceptions) through a chipper / mulcher, leaving you with a fresh pile of mulch. And the best bit, you know exactly what goes on in your garden, so you can trust the mulch. Good bits Closed loop: zero cart‑off costs, carbon miles kept to your block. Mulch acts as a blanket that locks in moisture and shuts out weeds (research shows evaporation drops by ~25 %). Saving you money and helping you with a more productive garden Looks sharp instantly, spruce up paths, beds and orchard rows with the chips. Watch‑outs There are a smorgasbord of mulchers available for sale, some are good, some are absolute rubbish and you’ll be pulling your hair out in no time. A few years ago I had a $1,000 mulcher, it mulched for 15 mins, then I had to remove stuck branches for a further 30 mins, on repeat. My personal opinion if you want to mulch is to hire a chipper or to get a company like Groundwise around, this way you get access to powerful chippers when you need it.  If you’re not keen on keeping the mulch companies like Groundwise can take it away and put it to use on another property. Option D – Seasonal Burn‑Off Old‑school but still legal outside the Fire Danger Period if you follow CFA and local council rules, registering a burn, supervising the pile and dousing it before dusk. Check full details on the CFA burn‑off page and your local council’s permit system. Good bits Zero carting, zero mulch storage. Fine for thin twiggy material that smokes less. Watch‑outs Fire bans, smoke complaints and neighbour relations to think about. Not exactly pleasant on a still day. Ash doesn’t add much structure back to soil compared with chunky mulch. Option E – Bury It Dig a trench, fill it with prunings, cover it and wait a couple of years. Worms do their thing eventually. Good bits Costs nothing but calories. Adds organic matter right where you buried it, eventually. Watch‑outs Hard yakka with clay soils. Risk of hitting irrigation, pipes or tree roots. Slow breakdown; might create air pockets and subsidence. Option F – Build a Compost Heap/Pile Chip fine branches, layer with lawn clippings and kitchen scraps, turn it weekly, and in six to nine months you’ll have rich, dark compost. Good bits Best‑practice recycling: you close the nutrient loop on site. Finished compost is gold for vegie beds and ornamental borders. Watch‑outs Needs space, occasional turning and a basic greens‑to‑browns recipe. Big woody chunks need pre‑shredding or they’ll hang around for years. For the science‑inclined, check out Gardening Australia’s quick guide to hot composting for the optimal mix of carbon and nitrogen. How the Options Stack Up on Cost & Effort Cheapest in dollars: DIY trailer run (if you already own the trailer) and it’s a bi-annual green waste day. If not, then it will likely be more expensive than mulching.  Cheapest in hours and effort: Mulcher on‑site or mulcher + truck, one crew, one session, no loading out by hand. Lowest environmental footprint: Mulcher on‑site & composting (zero transport emissions). Most neighbour‑friendly: Anything but a smoky burn‑off or skip hogging the kerb. Facebook Twitter Youtube Why We Nudge Clients Toward Chipping Money stays on your block – Skip bins of green waste often cost more than hiring a chipper crew once you factor minimum hire periods, weight charges and tip fees. Soil health – Woodchip spreads break down slowly, feeding fungi and improving moisture retention so you can water less over summer. Weed suppression – A fresh layer around 75 mm deep blocks light; less weeding means more hammock time. Looks the part – Clients love the “instant landscaped” finish; paths, under fruit trees and garden beds all look tidy in one hit. Final Thoughts Whether you’re clearing storm damage in Red Hill or pruning vines in Shoreham, managing the green‑waste pile is half the project. For most households the mulcher route hits the sweet spot of cost, speed and sustainability. But whichever option you pick, doing it safely and legally, especially when it comes to burn‑offs or trailer loads is key. If you’ve

Blackerry Bushes Taking Over? Blackberry bushes out of control? 4 proven fixes for Mornington & Melbourne blocks Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus agg.) is a declared noxious weed in Victoria, spreading fast, spiking ankles and smothering pasture. Under the Catchment & Land Protection Act you’re obliged to control it, and many councils won’t take blackberry canes in green‑waste bins. Agriculture Victoria Below are four widely used approaches, each one tried and tested on Victorian blocks.  1| Slash, mulch & dig (eco‑friendly, small–medium outbreaks) Cut the canes low with a brush‑cutter or hedge trimmer. Hire a mulcher (our mulching unit drives right up to the thicket) to chip the vines on‑site—finger‑safe and fast. Hot‑compost or solarise the fresh chip for 6‑8 weeks. Dig out the root crowns with a mattock; leave them on black plastic in full sun until they’re crisp (or take to the tip) Why it works: the mulch turns into soil food, and removing the root crown starves regrowth. Best suited to lifestyle blocks that already have the space for compost. Reference: Best‑practice manual, Victorian Blackberry Taskforce 2 | Burn & dig  (rural properties, big fuel loads) If you have acreage, burning the piled canes saves dozens of trailer loads. Check the CFA’s burn‑off rules, register your fire, and only burn outside the declared Fire Danger Period.  After the fire: Rake the ash aside to expose the root crowns. Dig or grub them out while they’re brittle. Follow with a thick blanket of wood‑chip mulch to smother seedlings. Note: This is only a viable option for some properties, as blackberry bushes often grow near dry vegetation, posing a fire risk. Always consider the surrounding fuel load, weather conditions, and proximity to structures or native bushland. If in doubt, opt for slashing and mulching instead, it’s safer, more controlled, and still highly effective at suppressing regrowth 3 | Slash, poison & dig  (thorough but slower) Slash the bush to knee height, you might choose to burn this in a safe location or to mulch it.  After 6‑8 weeks of fresh regrowth, spray with a registered blackberry herbicide—follow Agriculture Victoria’s label rates and wear PPE. Agriculture Victoria Return in late summer, dig out the weakened crowns, then mulch heavily. Word of caution: Herbicide treatments can affect more than just the blackberry—overspray or run-off may harm nearby plants, waterways, or soil health. Always apply in calm conditions, avoid spraying near creeks or drains, and consider spot-spraying over blanket coverage. If you’re unsure, consult a local landcare group or contractor before going all-in.   4 | Bring in the forestry machines  (when it’s a jungle) Specialist contractors run high‑horsepower forestry mulchers that shred blackberry and gorse in one pass and grind the crowns below soil level, ideal for a large volume of blackberry bushes.  Expect: Rapid clearance of multiple hectares. A mulch carpet that suppresses regrowth. Higher day‑rate, but far fewer labour hours. Word of caution: Forestry mulchers are heavy machines and can cause soil compaction or track damage, especially on wet or sloped ground. If you’re working near native vegetation, fencing, or sensitive areas, be sure to flag boundaries clearly and speak with your contractor about access paths and potential ground impact before work begins. Why we recommend mulching (when heavy machinery isn’t an option) Mulching may have a slightly higher upfront cost than a quick burn or a handful of herbicide, but here’s why Groundwise champions it every time: Zero tip-fee headaches: Mulch on-site, turn those canes into free soil amendment instead of paying green-waste charges. Soil health boost: Wood chips gradually break down into humus, feeding microbes and improving moisture retention—your paddock or paddlestead will thank you. No chemical fallout: Skip the off-target damage and waiting periods of poison; mulch is 100% natural and lets you re-plant natives right away. Safety and compliance: No fire-permit worries, no CFA burn-off restrictions—just safe, finger-friendly chipping that neighbours and regulators love. Mulch once, save on labour, landfill fees, and future weed control—plus you get a tidy, nutrient-rich blanket that keeps blackberry regrowth at bay. That’s smart landcare by Groundwise. Follow‑up is everything Scout monthly for sneaky re‑shoots and pull them by hand. Keep the ground covered—coarse pine‑bark or chipped tree‑removal waste at ~75 mm depth blocks light and keeps moisture in. Re‑plant with hardy locals (e.g., Dianella, Leptospermum) to out‑compete seedlings.   Need a hand? Groundwise have the tools to slice blackberry vines like butter, and our crew can chip, cart of compost the mess in one go! If you’re on the Mornington Peninsula or Melbourne’s south‑east: Call Tim: 0477 725 049 Book online: groundwise.au We’ll sort the prickles so you can reclaim your space again. 

4 common mulching mistakes to avoid this Autumn 🍂 Mulching this autumn? Avoid these common mistakes.We’ve seen a few mulch jobs go sideways, from the classic “mulch volcano” to waiting too long and missing out on autumn rain. Getting it right means: ✅ Healthier soil✅ Fewer weeds✅ Less watering later Every garden’s different, but these tips apply to most. If you’re planning to mulch soon, this might help you avoid some pain (and a few weeds). Need a hand?

5 Surprising Truths About Burning Green Waste – Just as Victoria’s Fire-Season Window Opens​

Ten Tips for Mulching on a Vineyard Morningtion Peninsula Edition Mulching is a common practice in vineyards across the Mornington Peninsula, offering benefits such as improved soil health, weed suppression, and moisture retention. We’ve pulled together best practice guidance and case studies from across Australia and beyond, to support vineyard managers in deciding what works best for them. 1. Select Mulch Based on Vineyard Conditions Different mulch types—like straw, composted green waste, or wood chips offer different benefits. Your choice will depend on your block layout, soil profile, and harvest approach. The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) outlines the strengths and risks of each option. 2. Apply Straw Mulch Appropriately Straw mulch is typically applied at around 11 tonnes per hectare and needs reapplication every three to four years. It’s important to avoid material that may contain weed seeds or be contaminated with herbicide. See AWRI’s practical mulch guide here. 3. Turn Cover Crops into Living Mulch Managing cover crops by slashing them in-season can provide green mulch that improves soil structure and feeds microbial activity. A Western Australian case study showed that cover crops also assist in frost mitigation and biodiversity. 4. Compost for Long-Term Soil Health Well-composted mulch offers longer-lasting benefits, especially when soil moisture retention and nutrient cycling are a priority. SoilHub’s vineyard compost trials highlight performance differences between fresh and aged materials. 5. Avoid Over-Mulching Too much mulch can restrict oxygen and water from reaching vine roots. A balanced layer, generally around 5–10 cm is ideal. This allows water to filter through while protecting the soil. Over-mulching also increases pest risk and may reduce nutrient availability. 6. Monitor for Biosecurity Risks On the Mornington Peninsula, vineyards must manage Phylloxera risk when moving organic materials. Mulching on-site significantly lowers contamination risk. You can read the PEZ guidelines here. 7. Consider Undervine Applications Many vineyards opt to apply mulch only in undervine zones. This limits costs, controls weeds, and improves vine access. This is also common in drip-irrigated blocks where interrow management is handled separately. 8. Balance Mulch Type with Machinery Access Straw mulch can reduce vineyard trafficability during winter. Wood chips and composts tend to settle more, but may require specialised spreading equipment. Choose material based on how frequently vehicles or harvesters move through your rows. 9. Use Local & Well-Composted Material Locally sourced mulch minimises transport costs and reduces the risk of introducing foreign weed species or pests. Wherever possible, use material that’s been composted to standards that ensure consistent breakdown and safe microbial activity. 10. Reflect on Cost vs. Benefit Many vineyards have found that the upfront investment in mulching pays off through reduced irrigation, better fruit quality, and improved soil health. The team at Sustainable Winegrowing Australia shares several real-world examples. Need a hand Every vineyard has its own rhythm. If you’re looking for help mulching your own prunings or setting up a custom blend for undervine application, we’re local to the Mornington Peninsula and here to help. Get in touch